It’s been too long since I climbed Grouse Grind, a 2.9KM trail that winds up at the top of Grouse Mountain, also dubbed the Peak of Vancouver, to recall any significant details. I vaguely remember the woody smell that lingers at the entrance of the trail that has warnings, disclaimer and house rules pierced on the fence.

It was late summer.  The air is damped and chilly, slowly dissipates as the sun pokes through the fog that floats in mid air. The woody smell of the sloppy hill soon blends in with the damp chill air and makes up a whiff of unique scent.

I also remember my foolhardy confidence that, given our hiking experience at home, we could complete the trail in an hour or so.

The humble entrance to the Grouse Grind that is also part of the 42km Baden Power Trail. There is gondola lift to ferry hikers down the mountain.

At 7:15 am, we are warming up. Directly ahead of us are a group of 3 middle-aged women holding their walking stick, guiding their plumb legs while thudding the stick left and right in slow motion through the stair-like hiking path. They are chatting animatedly as they plod on, pausing in between words that we could not understand, breathing much harder by the seconds.

The start of Grouse Grind at 7:00 am.

Eager, borderline arrogant, we decided we could do better than to stay behind these heavy-bottom women. We squeezed on the side of the trail to make way for our egos, and perhaps a chance to clock a record time for newbie. Our steps are light and we are already making double advances at a time. I imagine myself performing admirably.

At 7:50 am, just before I could reach out to my distant achievement, I sense a wave of energy dashes through my head from nowhere, and swirls inside searching for an exit. My steps come to a halt and my head instantly feels light, and soon loses its sense of direction.

I have to stretch out both my arms to maintain balance. Slowly, I bend and find my feet crawling to find refuge on one of the steps that I did not manage to advance. My face is numb and possibly pale, I don’t feel the blood rushing like I felt earlier.

After 35 minutes, I still see no sign of my progress. I have no idea how far I am from the mountaintop, but I figure it’s still far away. I sit facing the trail where I came, searching for my spirit that was high and cheery when I started. I breathe in the thin air while staring blankly at the dark earth of Grouse Mountain. I keep sipping Gatorade to rehydrate. I see my confidence evaporates into the damp moist air.

The surrounding has caught up with me. Trees are now still and in clear view, silently lined on the vast black soil. People whom we weaved by are now pounding on and wheezing. Some leave traces of perfume when they pass by, making the damp and moist air lightly scented. Besides the scattering chatters, the mountain is buzzing with muffling silence.

In less than 30 minutes, I’ve been humbled by the Mother Nature’s stair master. My alter ego has retreated and leaves me gasping for breath. The sun has just poked thorough the vast blue sky shielded by tips of the sharply lean trees.

At 8:00 am, the trail is slightly brighter. My eyes are staring at the curvy trail where I plodded, now hidden behind the dark leveled steps. The face of Grouse Mountain now looks more like an abandoned plain scruffy hill with no sign of hostility.

After renewing my lungs with fresh air, we move on, now with slower and steadier pace, one step at a time.

At 8:20 am, my spirit is gently lifted when the bright blue sign of a quarter mark emerged from the woods. After an hour, we have only managed 750 meters. As I approach a higher elevation, my body seems to have adjusted to the climate in the process. Though still panting lightly, but my steps are now lighter.

The quarter-mark and more to go.

We make a pit-stop and refuel with Gatorade and chocolate bars at the quarter mark. We then move on with a brand new spirit and motivation. I peel two layers of my jackets off before I move on. My body is now warm and ready for more.

At 8:50 am, we approach the half mark sign, another milestone clocked as we advance another 750 meters in 30 minutes. Now the sun hangs high atop the trees, shining generously on the soil, breaking the muffling silence with genial warmth.

A few hikers’ faces seem to be glowing from the sun’s reflection with beads of sweat trickling down from their forehead and chin. I spot some happy faces resting along the trail just after the marking.  Chatters sparkle here and there.

There is certainly no better way to begin a Sunday morning than a great aerobic workout while the chummy sun keeps you company. The air is now less damp but it is still chilly.

Taking a breather at the 3/4 mark.

At 9:20 am, we hear distant cheers roll down from above. As I look up, I see hikers advance their strides and started jogging lightly. Other than that, I still see no sign of the peak. I was sure the cheers were real.

Despite my curiosity, my pace just can’t be any quicker than it is now. Slow and steady, we continue climbing the planked stairs; now seem to be broader and meaner.

Our strides are wider and the muscles work more intensely with each stride pulled forward. Every stride is accompanied by a wheeze. The blood is also rushing through the veins to keep up.

In 10 minutes, the vegetation becomes noticeably less dense and bigger gaps of light opening up a path before us.
Pulling my last stride forward, I finally stood on the last step of the stairs, at the edge of the rocky formation where hikers bask under the unshielded sun.

Last and final step from the steep hike.

Above me, I see expansive skies with different hues of blue stacking on top one another with the lightest lays as the foundation for the austere clarity. Away from the hiking trail, resting on the rocky pavement, looking down, and the bright blue skies is now interrupted (in a good way) by strong and stout pine trees in the foreground.

We believe, with frequent practice and less bacon for breakfast, we are able to tame the backbreaking trail in no time.

Above and beyond the grueling grind is Grouse Mountain Village where a variety of activities are in store to sooth tensed up muscles. Sipping a hot cuppa at the Grouse Grind Coffee Bar would help ease the gasping. There will be more breathtaking coastline views of British Columbia waiting at the open area.

Chilling by the lookout point in the open air terrace at Grouse Grind Coffee Bar that overlooks the coastline view of Vancouver, BC.

For more information about this contemporary getaway, please visit http://www.grousemountain.com.

Spelunking, a term first used in the US, refers to recreational caving, which was said to be first coined by a group of boys and men who were exploring and studying caves in New England in 1940s. They called themselves the spelunkers.

Well, isn’t spelunking also caving then? What is the difference between the terms? There were some naming issues to define this outdoor activity that could be practiced under the speleology sphere, the scientific study of caves and its environment, or by any outdoor enthusiasts who would like to explore a cave system out of curiosity.

In the 1960s, the terms “spelunking” and “spelunker” began to carry a substandard image among the enthusiasts. In 1985, Steve Knutson (editor of National Speleological Society, NSS, publication American Caving Accidents) made the following distinction:

“Note that I use the term ‘spelunker’ to denote someone untrained and unknowledgeable in current exploration techniques, and ‘caver’ for those who are.” (Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caving)

Very well. Now that we get the term right, I should appropriately say that I went spelunking and not caving.

The three caves that the 10 of us explored were solutional caves in Dabong, Kelantan, called Gua Gelap (Dark Cave), Gua Keris (Sword Cave) and Gua Pagar (Fence Cave).

Solutional caves are caverns form in rock that is soluble, such as limestone, and most caves in Malaysia fall under this formation category. Other formations include primary cave, sea or littoral cave, corrosional or errosional cave, glacier cave, fracture cave, talus cave and anchihaline cave. You can read more about cave formations and their environment at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cave.

Dressed in normal cotton shirts, strapped with non-caver headlamps, a group of 10 spelunkers, as most were first timers, set out for some wiggling and crawling in the cave.

To reach the caves, we needed to thread through a bushy path for about 15 minutes. Without a helmet, we started with Gua Gelap, which was formerly known as Gua Susun (Arranged Cave), but later adopted the current name due to vandalism.

There is a passage at the entrance, where we need to hold our breath at times, hunch, and walk side way with one hand on the head, to get through the squeeze, an uneven passage formed in between rocks in a cave. As the squeeze was vertical and relatively wide, it was rather easy to get through, even for the wide-frame guys.  A clear and chilly stream flows beneath our steps.

LEFT TO RIGHT: Entrance of Gua Gelap - Marching through the passage - Scooching through the boulders.

Once we entered the cave, we continued to thread along the stream and came to another squeeze, a semi-circle looked like half a pothole on a wall with water streaming below the opening. This time, we had to squirm belly down to get through this chute’s entrance. Some chose to lie back and wiggle through.

We were advised to lay side ways, stretch the left hand through first, then lay the palm down for support, the head to follow, ear down as if to check the heart beat of the ground, use the leg to kick slightly, and wiggle through. When my shoulder got through, my right hand followed. I used my elbow to wiggle from the inside, and kicked slightly from the outside.

I was finally out after all that intimacy with the rock and the ground. My left sleeve got wet. I wiped the mud off my palms and elbows and then cleared the way for the next spelunker.

Since I was the first one who squeezed through, I wanted to see how I looked from where I was standing. I got my camera ready and stood elevated on another rock, looking down and waited.

Soon I saw a head protruding, then one hand extended slowly from beneath the head, half a shoulder followed and then slowly the whole body extracted itself out from the squeeze. Oh my, it looked like the rock was giving birth! More ‘labour’ followed and in 30 minutes, it was done with no casualty except for some minor head bumps, scrapped skin and a muddy back. Some kissed the ground, unintentionally.

Navigating through the first squeeze in Gua Gelap.

Some chose to wiggle back down through the first squeeze in Gua Gelap.

Negotiating through a pitch freestyle in Gua Gelap.

We continued to venture into the underground space in the cavern. Contrary to public belief, not all caves are damped and smelly. Gua Gelap was dry and airy. As we peeked through the tunnel with our headlamps, the uneven surface became visible, moldy and bumpy.

As we gathered at one spot, the light from our headlamps lit up the tunnel further. The calmness was mysterious, but it was soon broken by the chatters and laughter that echoed the tunnel.

As we strolled along the cavern, we came across sinkholes that looked like a lake with underground drainage nearby. Based on what I read on the Internet, these marvels in the cave were formed when the limestone was dissolved by rainwater and groundwater that contains carbonic acid and naturally occurring organic acid.

There were no bats like what we were expecting. Instead, we saw many leaping crickets feasting on grayish bat guano, the primary source to fuel the cave’s ecosystem.

LEFT: Cricket. RIGHT: Cave spider

Light shining through at the opening in Gua Pagar. Photo by spelunker Chang Kah Wane.

Surrounded by boulders, the ceiling of the cave extended much higher when we came to a more spacious ground, where sunlight shone through an opening on the left side of the cave, about 30 meters from the ground. We were standing at the entrance (on our right) of Gua Pagar, where the briefing for the next exploration took place.

As we ventured deeper into Gua Pagar, we came across some secondary mineral deposits, more familiarly known as stalactites, stalagmites and helictites or collectively called the speoleothems (see below for a common formation of a cave system). These secondary mineral deposits are calcium carbonate formations produced through slow precipitation.

More walking, wiggling and scooching took place in Gua Pagar. After 30 minutes, we came to our final cave, Gua Keris, where we were warned that there is a squeeze where the wide-chest ones might not be able to get through.

One of the few stalagmites under conservation.

Formed vertically with an uneven opening that is less than 10 inches wide and 15 inches tall from the ground, the squeeze looked quite intimidating. We were a confident bunch and decided to give it a shot.

Slightly more technical than the earlier negotiation, this time I laid my bum on the ground, I tucked my right shoulder and hand through the upper section of the squeeze, while I tilted my body about 15° right, I started to scooch my body side way, and my right elbow started to inch forward as I maneuvered my upper chest through. My right hip started to wiggle to slide my lower body over.

The final and the most intimidating squeeze in Gua Keris.

At the other side, the boulder was low and the space was tight. I had to squat and duck walk, both at the same time, to make way for the next entry. Eight spelunkers got through with minor scratches, mainly on the forehead, elbow and abdomen. Two of our comrades had to abandon the attempt as one could only managed to squeeze his head through, while the other barely fit half a shoulder through the intimidating squeeze. They later crossed over through a giant hole on the right, before the squeeze. The group later converged and continued the remaining journey.

Looking through the final squeeze from the inside.

Two of our comrades who abandoned their attemp at the final squeeze.

Our spelunking experience ended when we walked out of the cave entrance, and reached a slope decked with trees and plants on both sides. After another 15 minutes of trekking, we got back to where we started.

After 2 hours plus of negotiation through squeezes and pitches, we were slightly tired but happy.

While waiting for our transport, the mud-coated ones went into Gua Ikan (Fish Cave), a 5-minute walk from the waiting area, to wash up, as there was a flowing stream with clear water. According to the guide, Gua Ikan is no longer worth the time as there is nothing left of the cave except for vandalism remnants.

Laksem - a delightful Kelantan delicacy.

A common formation in limestone cave.

How to get there:
The best, but a long way is via KTM, the oldest mode of transport in Malaysia, from KL Sentral to Dabong Station, Kelantan. The journey takes easily 12-13 hours. Book 2-3 weeks ahead and get yourself a cabin so you get to kick back and relax with privacy secured. The train departs from KL Sentral every evening at 8:30pm. Check out for updated departure schedule at www.ktmb.com.my.

Guide contact:
Baha Camp Operator – 019 959 1020.

What to wear:

• Breathable cotton or quick dry shirt. Long sleeves would be good to avoid scratches. Tights for ladies and flexible pants for guys or whatever that is comfortable when you are on four.
• Bandana could do wonders (especially for girls and those with long hair) to keep your crawls and squirms free from distraction.
• A headlamp is essential and make sure the battery is new.
• Depending on the journey, you might want to bring your supply of water in a waterbag. Bring some quick and light snack to recharge.

What to bring:

• A set of new clothes
• First aid
• Camera
• And leave your expectation behind

Additional reads about caving:

• http://www.orionmagazine.org/index.php/articles/article/123/
• http://www.cavesofmalaysia.com/index.htm

I first hiked Bukit Kutu in May 2009. My take home lesson from the 7 hours hike was that Petai (Parkia speciosa) tree is almost as tall as a durian tree, which could potentially stem up to 90m. I thought it was a crawling plant. I also learned that pantyhose were the most effective leech repellent.

I had a fun hike the with a party of 7 and a canine. I thought I would do that again soon. Well, the ‘soon’ was more than a year later. I vaguely remember the trail when I gathered a couple of friends to join my revisit.

The drive from KL to Kuala Kubu Bharu would take about an hour, passing through Rawang and Ulu Yam. From Kuala Kubu Bharu, it is merely 10 minutes drive to Kampung Pertak, where Bukit Kutu and Chilling Waterfall are.

The ride to Kampung Pertak from Kuala Kubu Bharu town is, in my opinion, an adventure in itself. A calm and serene lake on the left (where the new Selangor Dam is) and rainforest canopy on the right, cruising along the winding country highway was a view to behold.

The peaceful tarmac with scant traffic makes it an ideal route for many cyclists to pedal through the weekend. They usually park their 4-wheeler near the Post Office at Kuala Kubu Bharu. Pedaling uphill could be a battle though.

CLOCKWISE: Fresh 4x4 trail marks the beginning of the trek - The muddy trek makes negotation harder but fun - A Pair of kasut getah (rubber shoes) a.k.a. Adidas Kampung are essentials for a trek like this as they are light and have a strong grip - When there is dirt, there is river.

This time, there are only 3 of us. I was the only one who has been here. Thanks to my failing memory, we actually drove until the first suspension bridge! Reversed and repositioned the car at the junction near the waterfall, we started trekking at 8am.

After crossing 2 familiar suspension bridges and 1 river, we reached a trail where we needed to tread along a knee-deep muddy track of which I had no recollection at all from my previous hike. A teammate was having a fun time sinking, for a good 10 minutes. Another teammate was having fun skipping and jumping, hoping to avoid the same fate; he was having a jolly good time nonetheless.

No way I was going to follow their footsteps. I decided to stay clear of the mud and hiked on the elevated track on the right. The two muddy warriors later cleansed themselves at a river 10 minutes ahead.

Clean and fresh again, the cooling water was a treat. What were ahead of us were confusing branches of trails. Hence our guesswork was crucial. Actually, compared to my last hike, there are now more markers than before. Unfortunately, they are not clearly visible thanks to the fallen bamboos and trees.

TOP LEFT: A common tree fungus in Malaysia rainforests. Who knows, it might be a new source for biodiesel - http://www.bionomicfuel.com/biodiesel-tree-fungus-new-bio-fuel-source/. TOP RIGHT: Tried to locate a name for this cutie but no luck. BOTTOM: Wild ginger flower.

You would need to go around or crawl through the fallen bamboos or trees to determine your next path. If you think you are lost, do look out for hidden red and white bands tied on trees. There might also be paper markers dropped along the trail by previous hikers. Walk 10-20 steps from the befuddling path, and you should be able to spot the rightful trek. Otherwise, you might want to steer clear and explore some nearby exits.

TOP LEFT: Crawly-backs! A larva that would later turn into a figeater beetle. TOP RIGHT: Friendly ants. MIDDLE: Looks like a member of the Megalodacne Fasciate. Let me know if you know its real name. BOTTOM: I would like to call this a bumble beetle. No luck searching on the net.

Wild and less explored, the trek (within the first hour) was shaded by the dense forest canopy. The sunlight was genial and playful, peeping at us occasionally. It was then I saw mangosteen trees and crawly-backs for the first time! The ubiquitous leeches were getting on our nerves. By the way, we learned that putting salt or cigarette ash is a no-no as the substance would make the leech regurgitate. When it does, the vomits would cause infection that is more severe than the bite itself.

This is my first time seeing mangosteen in its homeland.

The right way to remove a leech is to press its head with your fingers and yank it off slowly. Apply some antiseptic to prevent infection.

2 hours were up. The trail became steeper and more slippery. Well, if there is up, there will be down on the way back. I personally enjoy downhill more, odd, I know.

After more than 2 hours of hike, we came to a large expanse of rock formation that makes a good spot to catch a breather. Beware of the ubiquitous bat guano though. So choose your spot carefully.

I took 4 hours and 30 minutes to reach the summit in the previous hike, so, technically, it should be another 2 more hours to announce victory.

Unfortunately, after plodding for 3 hours, no summit was in sight. Exhausted and hungry, we wondered if we could ever reach the peak. Did the trek get extended or something? How could it take so much longer than the last time? Bewildered, we moved on.

30 more minutes later, we spotted a chimney, the remnant of a crumbled British vacation home, standing tall in front of us. If the chimney is still standing, what happened to the home? I would imagine they used the same building materials, no? The rubble left behind gave us no clue either.

5 more minutes from the chimney, we saw a great rock summit perched against the bright blue sky, where dark clouds started to form. We smelled victory. We hurried on the ridge to catch the 360° view of the forest canopy, at 1100m above sea level, before the rain came.

The soothing breeze made the gloomy sky less threatening now. As we took in the view, it started drizzling. I tried to spot a tick but no luck. I still wonder why is this hill called “kutu” (tick) and not leech due to obvious reasons.

TOP LEFT: A summit marker that is different from the other peaks I’ve been to. There isn’t any steel pyramid here. TOP RIGHT: The serene view at the summit where dark clouds started to gather from the left. BOTTOM: Marked by IPNOC Club, members from the Internet Protocol Network Operation Center in TM, Cyberjaya - http://ipnocoutdoors.blogspot.com/

After a 20-minute lunch break, we packed up and started descending. We were advised by another group to descend by 2:15pm before it gets dark. It was 2pm when we started descending. The rain has caught up with us then.

After 4 hours of treading along the downhill sloppy trek, we reached the starting point drenched. Despite the rain, we still took a dip at the waterfall. Changing was a problem as there were no shades or thick enough bushes for the purpose. Messy, but I still managed.

So, all in all, we took 5 hours and 30 minutes to reach the peak and 4 hours and 30 minutes to get back to the starting point. I attribute the 2 extra hours (the hike down previously was 3 hours and 30 minutes) to the fallen bamboos and trees, which had taken us more time.

After a few leech bites, which were severely infected, and countless potent mossy kisses, I felt accomplished. Would I go back to Kutu again? I’m not sure.

How to get there?

It would be easier to take Jalan Kuching and pass through Selayang, head straight to Rawang and Ulu Yam. You will see signboards to Kuala Kubu Bharu along the way. Once you reach Kuala Kubu Bharu Town, take the right at the cross junction where a green signboard lists Majistret Makahmah among other landmarks. Then go straight for 10-15 minutes, you will reach a country highway, followed by a huge lake with a dam on your left. Look out for the signboard that says Kampung Pertak. Turn right to go to Kampung Pertak, and then turn right again at the T-junction. Go straight, and you can park on the roadside where you can see a river on your right, not clearly but you have to look out for it.

Walk for 1-2 minutes, you will come to a bridge. Once you are here, you are on the right track. Have fun and let the adventure begin!

What to wear?

If you have sensitive skin, cover yourself with breathable long-sleeve shirt and pants. Wear leech socks or pantyhose, double it for double protection. Guys, you will be grateful for the vanity invention, unless you have the patience to nurse infected leech bites for months. Yes, it is that poisonous.

What to bring?

If you drink like a fish, then bring 3 liters of water (in a hydration pack for easy access) and 2-3 bottles of Gatorade. It’s better to pack more than less. If you are weary about the weight, then bring Gatorate in powder form. Or if you don’t have a 3-liter water bag, bring purification tablet so you can drink from the stream. Use half a pil for 1.5 liters of water. It may taste like chlorine water though.